and other thing i notice now looking at your screens
the MANUFACTURER of your verbatin is CMC magnectics corp u see the label with a true verbatin but in fact is a CMC media
some of the manufacturers make poor quality media
unfortunately i don't know any trusted site with cd brands and manufacturer i just know that one i told but is for DVD
Yeh, Media could be the problem. I have 3 burners on my machine, all of varying ages: 1yr, 2yr and 5 years old. It took me awhile to find media compatible for all three: I mean I went through a lot of disks that became Frisbees. At one point I was so convinced that it was the actual burner itself, I returned one, bought another, returned, bought.... I got so frustrating because the media I burned would work on the computer optical drives and then--not work in my stand alone DVD players for TV or CD's for car audio. In other words, I'll bet it's the media.
And is needed do that ? Why the copy shouldn't be equal ?Well, it checks if the burnt copy equals the image.
Thanks for the advice, I will try but I need to use virtual drive for mount images... there is a free software wich don't install this drive ? Virtual Clone CD don't support some img format.feanime
Difference ? What's the advanced emulation ? So I will reainstall daemon tools without that...He can use daemon tools but not with advanced emulation you can choose it at the installation.
But why ? Are all CDs... and Verbatim is not bad, all use Verbatims.Maybe your PS1 isn't liking verbatims, this can happen, buy/try other brands (lower quality than verbatim or higher) (I use Imation for CDs).
Check this article: Q. Why does the speed at which you burn a CD make a difference?
When you burn at low speed quality is higher because dots/bumps position is more accurate. If your cd-rom is old, it can expect CD with factory quality (all bumps has their correct place), while high speed burning cannot reproduce.
Verbatim and TDK are the best CD-R(W) for old drives.
Last edited by LuluShoutX; 31.03.11 at 06:40.
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i haven't had to dig into my vault of ps1 'backup' knowledge for years, buuut...
best media for the original ps1 builds (fat greys) is either verbatim, taiyo yuden, tdk blacks or kodak golds (taiyo make the best discs on the planet - BAR NONE - depends on how much pride you have in your piracy)
burn slow. ps1, ps2 and psx lasers are awful - no exceptions on batches or builds. 4x used to be the standard. yeah, you can burn at max, but you're going to increase wear on your laser and potentially get bad results (more on this below...)
there seems to be conflicting views here on burn speeds and speeds affecting reading....
burn slow for ps1 and ps2 cds. the quality of the burn IS affected. sure, a generic computer burner/reader wont have problems reading the discs, but your ps laser is nowhere near the same quality of even the crappiest drives desktop computer optical drives.
burning verification = close to pointless.
if a laser is misaligned, it can burn fine. if you verify the burn in the same drive (i.e. using the same misaligned laser) it will be verified fine.
take that disc to another machine/device with a less tolerant laser, you'll get skips and crc errors.
if a laser burns badly - the same laser can read the bad burn perfectly, but others will not always be successful.
think of it like handwriting. if you jot notes down in your illegible scrawl for yourself, it's fine, as it's only you who has to read it, but if you pass the notes to someone else, they're gonna have problems...
once again with speed - 8 speed burns are going to play fine. BUT, try a burn of that speed on an fmv heavy game. FFVIII springs to mind as one that caused headaches back in the day - the intro and all other cut scenes would skip like crazy (ruining the experience) but the gameplay would be fine.
fmv heavy = burn slow
everything else = higher speed burns are fine
software - back in the day, discjuggler, imgburn and another one (the name escapes me) were the most used, just down to the image types which groups released.
i always favoured imgburn, though a couple of scene releases specifically required discjuggler down to them using some software specific image encoding.
if you are having problems launching your burnt games, depending on what the games are, they may need to be patched. paradox released their ppf-o-matic tool during the height of the ps1 scene as protections were introduced. 90% of scene images which were released were untouched and needed to be patched. if you are being faced with black screens instead of load screens, you're gonna have to patch your images before burning.
argh - whilst i remember - on the subject of media once again - low speed media can be a pain in the ass to find nowadays (depending on where you are). make sure you're using it IN CONJUNCTION WITH A DRIVE THAT CAN WRITE AT LOW SPEEDS.
that's a biggie.
i really should be working at the moment, so i'll cut off here - if you have more questions, just pm and tell me to look at the thread - i'm so lax with stuff like that
oh - and for anyone who's interested...
Did you know: Slow write speeds + modern drives + modern media = no good - Club MyCE
food for the mind
Now I tried to burn at max speed (AWS), and game had only 1 block (didn't start) and 1 "crash" (block during loading), all the other times worked ok... for now.
---------- Post added at 18:06 ---------- Previous post was at 15:53 ----------
Now I've seen some other problem... more block, can't restart game from the menu, problem with audio... I've reburned the ISO and the verify say me a lot of error, is maybe the burner ?
be careful with such articles. just because newer hardware can do it faster dösn't mean it is better. further most of those articles lack any kind of proof. in the end forget about all theory and try it out.
old and crappy drives are excellent test subjects. a PSX for cd for example or early PS2 models for dvd are great. you can hear the laser working and the more it struggles the worse the disc is. it's just that easy. also as mentioned above fmv or loading times are good indicators, too.
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